First Ascent 17 December 2016 by Francesco Maffei, Paolo Viviani and Fabiano Maturi. The line follows the evident gully that characterize the face. For a rep it is recommended to bring a full set of firends including micro, nuts, hammer and some pitons. Difficulties can change a lot based on conditions.
ACCESS: From Malga Cornisello follow the path that leads to the Vedretta lake, where it turns right, crossing the valley, continue straight until you reach the obvious slope on the left (orographic right) that leads to the pillar. When you reach the base, follow the obvious channel that rises from the right to the left to the end (bolt).
ITINERARY:
1st pitch: From the bolt, cross to the right and follow the obvious goulotte. (55m, M5 / 1ch - Stop 1 bolt).
2nd shot: Cross to the right, turn the corner until you reach the base of the second obvious gully. (40m, Snow 55 ° / Stop 1 bolt).
3rd pitch: Follow the gully (40m, M5 + / Sosta 1 spit).
4th pitch: Go up to the left, pass a stretch of rock until you reach the snow slope, then go up to the left
until the stop. (40m, M4 + then snow 50 ° / Stop 1 bolt).
5th Shot: Cross a meter to the left until you reach the rocky ridge, follow it for about ten meters until you reach the snow slope, follow it and exit on the left until you reach the ridge. (60m, M4 + then snow 50 ° / 1ch - Stop on friend).
6th pitch: Follow the easy ridge with some mixed passes up to the top of the pillar. (40m / Stop on a spike).
DESCENT: From the top of the pillar continue towards Cima Cornisello, descend a few meters until you find the belay (2 bolts + cordon). With a double rope of 30 meters you reach the snow channel from which you descend on foot. Arrived at the end of the channel, go around the rocks on the left (face downstream) then return to the right, at the start of the route.