Dolomites of Brenta - Cima Brenta, Northwest Face: “The Route That Doesn’t Exist” or “I’m So Sorry” (report by Roberto Parolari)

This is a stunning climb in an environment that is never mundane (always remember that the cold makes the ice very fragile), but often, with these winters, the pegs and belays get covered. It is recommended to sleep in the winter bivouac at the Tuckett Hut. The approach can be done either by snowmobile to the Graffer Hut (about an hour and fifteen minutes) or via lifts if they are open (40 minutes).

From there, you ascend towards the Tuckett Pass and, before the large final ramp, cut to the right. You climb towards the cone of the northwest face of Cima Brenta. The routes have been climbed by Alpine Guides Tommy and Silvestro Franchini in June 2012. In '98, there was an attempt by Robi Parolari and Nic Tondini, which was later followed in December 2012 by Robi with Andrea Reboldi.

Current Conditions: Cone – 60 m of snow at 40 degrees.

First Pitch: Follow the orange arrow and red dots, climb on rock M4, bypassing the first part of the high hourglass-shaped gully, but you can double back below. Continue up the gully, climbing a short section of 75-80 degrees of ice, then about 60 m in the gully to a belay on an Abalakov and ice screw.

Next Steps: Climb another 50 m tackling a 60-degree ramp, then a very thin and delicate line of vertical ice and slightly overhanging ice M5 5+ with a belay on a friend to the right. Ascend the ice and snow ramp for about 50 m to a belay on an Abalakov and ice screw, then immediately after, at about 70 m, find a belay in the gully with a rock peg and an hourglass to equip just above.

Continue for 55-60 m on ice, first sloped then vertical, aiming for a chimney where there is a belay on the right with two universal rock pegs. From there, tackle the candle on the left of the chimney 5+ WI or climb the chimney, finding support with your back and right foot on the rock 5 WI to a belay on an Abalakov and ice screw.

Ascend another 40 m on the candle to the left 4+ WI, then follow a short section of rock, moving left five to six meters, and then straight up M4, continuing beneath the natural arch through the couloirs until reaching a spire equipped.

From there, there are currently three options: climb the ridge then descend to the Massari gully, summit and descend via the north gully of Cima Brenta, or rappel 6/7 times on the spire and Abalakov, carefully checking the existing anchors and adding more if necessary.

Equipment Used: 9 ice screws (a dozen recommended), a set of Wild Country friends from gray to large yellow (offset nuts from Wild Country recommended), and some short rope sections to improve the belays.