Brenta Dolomites Castello di Vallesinella “Sfascia Carrozze” route
The route was opened in 2013 by Mauro Mabboni and Massimo Faletti.
Useful Gear: 2 sets of Totem cams up to blue, some bolts.
Length 1: M7, 35m. Aim for the upper ice flow; useful nuts and friends. An aluminum bong and a chock are left near the flow.
Length 2: M7, 35/40m. Climb to the end of the ice and then follow the crack to the right, then traverse left. Use friends; it's climbable with ice axes and hands.
Length 3: M6, 35/40m. Climb straight up, then to the left, then to the right. There's a difficult section before the belay. Use ice screws, friends, and nuts.
Length 4: M6, 35/40m. Starts difficult on thin ice; a nut and a bolt are left. Continue toward the ledge, crossing a bolted route. You can clip a bolt at the chain, then follow the crack to the ledge.
Length 5: 35m walking and M6 Traverse with a final setup under the chimney.