Trento Fersina gorges Mixed Crag ” Ghiacciodromo “

In 1998, Massimo Faletti and Marco Molinari spotted an ice octopus about the height of the Povo side from the old Crozi road. They began setting up belays and making the first mixed routes, climbing long ice columns of 40 to 50 meters. Now, there are several very beautiful and impressive routes.

You can park on the road that connects the village of Civezzano to the bypass heading towards Trento. After a short tunnel, before the curve that intersects the old Crozi road (a cycling path), walk for about 350 meters until you see stairs leading down to a power station. Descend and cross the stream on two steel cables suspended over the Fersina.

After crossing, you will reach the crag. Going towards Trento on the right, the route was ascended by Massimo Faletti. The large ice columns are not always climbable, with a belay at 40m, graded WI6 (various ice screws). The first ice column of the octopus can be climbed from the left, where Massimo Faletti ascended halfway up the overhang, with a bolt belay at the top (various ice screws).

Going left, you will find routes graded M7, then D8, then M7 again, followed by M6+, M5, and M6. Above, there are two more single-pitch icefalls. The first goes from right to left and is graded WI4, while the other, going left and equipped with bolts, is called Domopack, graded WI5, with belays on a tree.

Anno apertura:

1998

Apritori:

Max Faletti Marco Molinari

Media: