2019 Pakistan we went to look for 2 towers at an altitude of 6000m which were almost unattainable, given the conditions of the very dangerous glacier, where we witnessed large discharges of serracchi, and we created a new route which develops on a 900m wall, called by us Ellison Peak in memory of a great mountaineer, mother of Tom Ballard, the summit reaches approximately 5600 m let's say that this was a makeshift climb, but of a high level.
we started the approach with little material, 2 sets of friends plus a n. 4, little material, because we were counting on the abseil descent equipped by Maurizio Giordani and David Jonathan Hall who abandoned after 5 rope lengths.
the difficulties of the route are high up to 9-7b b+ with areas of snow and slabs of 20/25m no fall zone, high grade off with chimneys, after a bivouac when we reached the top, we would still have had a small tower of 90/100 m halfway up this very long massive wall, where we would have had to use bolts, which we didn't have. The descent without material and given the renunciation of the expedition companions was not easy, the double ropes were often improvised on stuck knots or stuck stones. Having returned to Base Camp, given the little time left, we immediately set off for a 6000m peak which was in front of the most mountaineer's nose, on the first day. With David and Matteo we reached 5400m from the 3500m of Base Camp, then Matteo and I tried to climb we reached the top at 5700m then I, having an attack of altitude sickness, decided to go down. Matteo continued for another 200m only then went down. I thank the mountain!